Now here’s an unexpected use of Spring’s rhubarb. The other day I didn’t happen to have lemons to steam swordfish in my usual manner together with a tad of oil, herbs, and thinly sliced vegetables. No white wine in the larder either, to sub. Well, why not make use of rhubarb’s tang? The result: complex, perfumed, delicious.

• thinly slice fennel and red onion, and a little rhubarb. There should be about a cup total. Toss the vegetables in a bowl together with a bit of sea salt, freshly ground pepper, and 3 or 4 tablespoons of fine tequila (such as Patron.)

• Arrange half the seasoned mix in a Pyrex pie plate, place a ¾ pound swordfish steak approximately ¾ inch thick atop it, then a final layer of vegetables. Dot with 2 tablespoons butter cut into bits.

• Cover pan tightly with plastic wrap. Microwave for 6 minutes. Flip the swordfish, uncooked bottom-side up. Reseal and zap a minute more. Test with a fork that it’s cooked à point, but not dry. Serve beside white rice scented with the pan juices.

Serves 2.